I had the luxury of briefly seeing this watch when Tudor launched it at Watches and Wonders 2024 and my initial reactions to the new Black Bay 58 GMT were overwhelmingly positive.
Now, after spending a few days with the watch, I can confidently say I'm in love. It's blend of vintage charm and modern performance, along with refined solutions to some key historical Black Bay issues, make it comfortably the best watch Tudor has made to date.
This new 2024 Black Bay 58 GMT is an absolute masterclass in blending modern watchmaking with vintage charm. Aesthetically the first thing that stands out is the beautiful black and burgundy anodised aluminium 'Coke' bezel, It is truly striking, [photos do not do it justice], In some lights, the burgundy appears as a deep autumnal rouge, yet in other lights, it pops as brightly as a GMT Master II bezel. Contrasted against the black dial and inlaid with the gilt 24 hour GMT markers, the ensemble is absolutely perfect.
The 39mm case size is perfect for those who prefer a slightly smaller, more traditional watch. The dial of the Black Bay 58 is beautifully proportioned, featuring gilt accents against a matte black background. A combination of round, rectangular, and triangular markers carry on the vintage aesthetic. The sweeping lollipop seconds hand and the iconic snowflake hour hand complete this timeless design. On an average sized wrist, it’s neither too large nor too small—it's versatile and just right.
This year's updates focus more on refinement rather than redefinition, particularly noticeable in the size of the Black Bay crown. The stainless steel screw down crown has long been a concern for me, but the reduction in size this year is a welcomed change. Furthermore, the historically thick Black Bay case has often made the watch feel cumbersome and heavy. However, with the new 12.8mm thinner case size, the comfort of the 39mm watch is greatly enhanced, making it feel absolutely perfect on the wrist.
The movement in this watch, the manufacture calibre MT5450-U, is truly exceptional. It's METAS certified, ensuring top notch precision [it should also run within a tolerance range of 0/+5 seconds a day], and features a self winding mechanical system with a 65 hour power reserve and an integrated GMT function, allowing you to read the time in three different time zones simultaneously.
Aside from the refined T-clasp system, the bracelet remains largely unchanged. While I understand the vintage nod, the one thing I would personally change on these bracelets are the rivets. That said, the bracelet fit is terrific, and the overall design maintains its classic appeal.
Tudor's attention to detail and commitment to refinement shine through in the latest updates to the Black Bay collection. From the improvements to the movement to the thinner case profile, each enhancement contributes to a more comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience. While maintaining its timeless design elements. Tudor continues to evolve and innovate, and it was clear at watches and wonders that the Tudor release was one of the most exciting.
Just recently, I stopped by a nearby Tudor authorised dealer, and these new GMT Black Bay watches were showcased with an "exhibition only" sign. It's a clear indicator that demand is likely to soar, potentially surpassing supply.
It's not surprising, given how stunning the watch is. Could this indeed mark the emergence of the next "Rolex 2.0"?
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